Siren

Ship or pick up from our office.

Glass Break Sensor

• Early Detection: They trigger an alarm as soon as the glass is broken, potentially before an intruder has even fully entered the property. This is a significant advantage over motion sensors, which only activate once an intruder is already inside.
• Enhanced Perimeter Security: While door and window sensors detect when an opening is forced, glass break sensors cover the scenario where an intruder smashes through the glass rather than opening the door or window.
• Night Protection: Many homeowners deactivate motion sensors at night to avoid false alarms from their own movement. Glass break sensors can remain armed, providing protection even when other internal sensors are off.
• Deterrence: Visible glass break sensors can act as a deterrent, discouraging would-be intruders from attempting a break-in through windows.

• Vs. Door/Window Sensors: Door and window sensors detect when an opening is breached (i.e., when a door or window is opened). Glass break sensors, conversely, detect when the glass itself is broken, protecting against forced entry where the opening isn't used.
• Vs. Motion Sensors: Motion sensors detect movement within a room. While effective, they only trigger an alarm once an intruder is already inside. Glass break sensors offer earlier detection by alarming at the point of entry (the window or glass door). For comprehensive security, it's often recommended to use a combination of these sensor types.

Ship or pick up from our office.

Car back-up camera

1. Camera Placement: The camera is typically small and discreetly mounted on the rear of the vehicle. Common locations include near the license plate, integrated into the trunk handle, or within the rear bumper.
2. Activation: When the driver shifts the vehicle into REVERSE gear, the back-up camera automatically activates.
3. Video Feed: The camera captures a wide-angle video image of the area behind the car.
4. Display: This live video feed is then displayed on a screen inside the vehicle. This screen can be:
   • An integrated display in the dashboard (common in newer vehicles).
   • A dedicated monitor that mounts on the dashboard.
   • A replacement rearview mirror with an integrated screen.
   • An aftermarket car stereo head unit with a video input.
5. Deactivation: When the driver shifts out of reverse, the camera typically turns off.

• Enhanced Safety: This is the most crucial benefit. Back-up cameras dramatically reduce blind spots behind the vehicle, helping drivers avoid collisions with:
  • Pedestrians: Especially children and pets who may not be visible in rearview mirrors.
  • Obstacles: Such as bollards, low walls, fire hydrants, or other vehicles.
• Improved Parking: Makes parallel parking and backing into parking spots much easier and more precise.
• Parking Guidelines: Many systems overlay dynamic (move with steering wheel input) or static lines on the screen to help the driver estimate distance and trajectory.
• Night Vision/Low-Light Capability: Many cameras are equipped with enhanced low-light sensors or infrared (IR) LEDs to provide a clear image even in dark conditions.
• Wide Viewing Angle: Essential for comprehensive coverage, typically offering 120 to 170 degrees of view to minimize blind spots.
• Weather Resistance: Since they are mounted externally, backup cameras are designed to be waterproof and dustproof (often with an IP67 rating or higher).
• Integration with Other Systems: Some advanced systems integrate with parking sensors (audible warnings) and Rear Cross-Traffic Alert (warns of approaching vehicles from the sides when backing out of a spot).
• Wired vs. Wireless:
  • Wired cameras: Offer a more reliable connection and typically higher video quality, but require running cables through the vehicle.
  • Wireless cameras: Easier to install as they transmit the video feed wirelessly, but can sometimes be susceptible to interference or have lower resolution.

Ship or pick up from our office.

Car alarm shock sensor

1. Detection of Vibration/Impact:
   • When the car experiences a physical disturbance (e.g., a window being hit, someone trying to pry open a door, a car next to it bumping it, or even a strong bass from a passing vehicle), the shock sensor registers this as a vibration or impact.
   • Internally, the sensor often contains a small weight or a piezoelectric crystal that moves or generates a voltage when subjected to mechanical stress. This movement or voltage change is converted into an electrical signal.
2. Sensitivity Adjustment and Dual-Stage Triggers:
   • Modern shock sensors are usually adjustable in terms of sensitivity. This is crucial to prevent false alarms from minor disturbances (like a loud truck passing by or someone lightly tapping the car).
   • Many high-quality sensors are dual-stage or multi-stage:
     • Light Impact (Pre-warning/First Stage): If a minor impact or vibration is detected (e.g., someone bumps the car, or a strong wind rattles it), the sensor sends a "pre-warning" signal to the alarm control unit. This typically results in a short series of chirps from the alarm or a warning flash of the lights. This is designed to deter a potential intruder without fully setting off the alarm.
     • Heavy Impact (Full Alarm/Second Stage): If a more significant impact or sustained vibration is detected (e.g., a window being smashed, a door being forced open, or the vehicle being jacked up for wheel theft), the sensor sends a "full alarm" signal. This triggers the main alarm, sounding the siren, flashing the lights, and potentially sending an alert to the owner's remote or smartphone.

• Single-Stage: Triggers the full alarm for any detected shock above a certain threshold. (Less common in modern systems due to false alarm potential).
• Dual-Stage (or Dual-Zone): As described above, offers a warning chirp for light impacts and a full alarm for heavy impacts. This is the most common and effective type.
• Digital Shock Sensors: These are more advanced, using microprocessors to analyze the vibration patterns. They can often differentiate between different types of impacts (e.g., a window break vs. a passing truck) and are less prone to false alarms.
• Integrated with Other Sensors: Some advanced alarm modules now combine shock sensing with other functions like tilt sensing (to detect towing) or even glass-break detection (listening for the specific sound of breaking glass) into a single unit (e.g., Compustar's FT-DAS-II sensor).

• Early Detection: Can detect an attempted break-in before a door or hood is even opened.
• Comprehensive Protection: Provides protection for the entire vehicle body, including windows, wheels, and the undercarriage (against jacking).
• Deterrent: The warning chirps often scare off potential thieves.

• Sensitivity Adjustment is Key: Proper installation and calibration of the shock sensor are crucial. If it's too sensitive, it will cause false alarms due to loud vehicles, thunder, or even heavy rain. If it's not sensitive enough, it might not detect a genuine threat. Professional installation is highly recommended to ensure optimal performance.
• Environmental Factors: Vibrations from heavy trucks, construction, or even strong winds can sometimes trigger poorly adjusted sensors.
• Not a Standalone Solution: While important, a shock sensor is usually part of a comprehensive alarm system that also includes door/hood/trunk sensors, and sometimes ultrasonic or tilt sensors for maximum protection.

Ship or pick up from our office.

Vehicle central door lock actuator

1. Signal Transmission: When you press the lock or unlock button on your key fob (remote control) or the switch inside the car, a radio frequency signal or an electrical signal is sent to the vehicle's Electronic Control Unit (ECU), often referred to as the Body Control Module (BCM).
2. Processing by ECU: The ECU decodes this signal and determines whether the command is to lock or unlock the doors.
3. Actuator Activation: The ECU then sends an electrical current to the door lock actuator located inside each door.
4. Mechanical Movement: The actuator contains a small electric motor, a set of gears, and linkages (or sometimes a cable).
   • When the motor receives the electrical current, it rotates in one direction to engage the locking mechanism (locking the door) or in the opposite direction to disengage it (unlocking the door).
   • The gears amplify the motor's force, and the linkages convert the rotational motion of the motor into the linear or pivotal motion needed to move the door latch and lock/unlock the door.
5. Feedback (Optional): Some systems provide feedback, such as a light flash or a horn chirp, to confirm that the doors have been locked or unlocked.

• Electric Motor: A small, reversible DC motor that provides the power.
• Gear Train: A series of gears that transmit and multiply the motor's torque to move the locking mechanism.
• Linkages/Cable: Connect the internal mechanism of the actuator to the door's actual latching mechanism.
• Electrical Contacts/Switches: These are inside the actuator and tell the ECU the current state of the lock (locked or unlocked).
• Housing: Encapsulates and protects all the internal components.

• Motor-driven Actuators (Most Common in Modern Cars): As described above, these use a small electric motor and gears. They offer precise control and are generally durable.
• Solenoid-driven Actuators (Older or Simpler Systems): These use an electromagnetic coil (solenoid) to create a rapid, linear pulling or pushing motion. They are typically simpler but can be less robust for frequent use.

• Convenience: Allows for simultaneous locking or unlocking of all doors with a single action, eliminating the need to manually lock each door.
• Security: Ensures all doors are properly locked, preventing unauthorized access.
• Safety: Modern systems often include features like:
  • Speed-sensitive locking: Doors automatically lock when the vehicle reaches a certain speed.
  • Automatic re-locking: If you unlock the car but don't open a door within a certain time, the doors will re-lock automatically.
  • Anti-theft features: Some systems disable interior release levers when "double locked" to prevent entry even after glass breakage.
• Remote Keyless Entry: Integral to the operation of key fob remotes.

• Inconsistent Locking/Unlocking: One or more doors don't respond reliably to the lock/unlock command from the fob or interior switch.
• Unusual Noises: Clicking, grinding, buzzing, or whirring sounds coming from inside the door when trying to lock or unlock. This often indicates worn gears or a struggling motor.
• Sluggish Operation: The door lock moves slowly or with a delay.
• Door Stays Locked or Unlocked: A specific door might be stuck in the locked or unlocked position, even when the rest of the car responds. You might still be able to operate it manually.
• Random Locking/Unlocking: The door might lock or unlock itself without input.
• "Door Ajar" Warning Light: In some cases, a faulty actuator (specifically, a worn internal switch) can cause the "door open" warning light to stay on even when the door is closed, or trigger the car alarm.